America: The Vegetarian Table

bought this cookbook from the remainder table of a huge chain bookstore. I can't name the store because I swore I would never spend money there. "Oh, I only buy books at locally owned stores or on Amazon.com." Support local business or very convenient entrepreneurship. I was only there to read to my kids in an air-conditioned place.

I have this thing about cookbooks; I freely and calmly admit it. I like them beyond all reason and utility. Seeing them filling my bookshelves gives me a feeling of satisfaction and comfort. I have read them all like novels. If I needed to I could access a recipe for Tunisian flatbread, Japanese seaweed salad, Moroccan preserved lemons.

I am also on a budget, hence my surreptitious search of the remainder table. This book jumped out at me. The author, Deborah Madison, is a guru of food, in my top 10. She started the haute vegetarian restaurant Greens in San Francisco, a place that I would eat any time someone else was paying. She has also written three great cookbooks: The Savory Way, The Greens Cookbook, and Vegetarian Cooking For Everyone.

The book also cost less than seven dollars. So I bought it.

I read it fast, sitting on the front steps while my children ate dinner. I took it to my neighbor who is also a chef-turned-mommy. She wanted me to leave it so she could read it. I would not part with it. Too bad for her that she has a newborn baby to nurse. Compassion only goes so far. This was a great new cookbook and I had to take it home and start fantasizing about cooking.

It was really hot here that day so my fancy turned to the salad section of the book. I saw myself sitting poolside, kids frolicking, table set with Waldorf Salad, Tomato and Onion Salad, Coleslaw, and German Potato Salad. We were all svelte, healthy, well fed, and suntan.

No, no, my mind jumped around, it is lunchtime. We are all sitting at the table. No one is fighting, crying, or asking me to get them anything from the kitchen. This is because the table is covered with satisfying goodies. We are eating sandwiches with Egg Salad, Dutch Cheese Filling, and Fried Green Tomatoes. We have Cream of Tomato Soup, and Corn Chowder. We can also pick at Scalloped Potatoes, Spinach Souffléé, Potato Latkes, and Spoon bread, even Creamed Cabbage with Dill. Everyone actually eats and helps clear the table.

In my mind the scene shifts lazily to dinnertime. I had time to fax recipes from Madison's book to all my friends and we have a potluck. No one calls and says they cannot come due to lice, plumbing problems, or marital squabbles. Friends lay out hearty American Fare all across my (currently non-existent but who's asking) dining room table. Macaroni and Cheese shoulders up to Tamale Pie. Stuffed Cabbage, Mushroom Stew with Popovers, and Green Chili Casserole all take their places. 

Finally it is time for dessert. All the dads have meticulously cleaned the kitchen, and are taking all the children outside to play. We tired old moms relax with our lattes and eat the desserts I made with all my copious free time. A spoonful of Blueberry Cobbler, one of Fig Ice Cream, a slice of Concord Grape Pie, and some Persimmon Pudding. 

Remarkably none of us gain any weight from this feast and everyone goes out and buys America: The Vegetarian Table right away so that whenever I stop by there will be something yummy for me to eat.

An elaborate and twisted fantasy? Sure. But they use sex to sell cars so why not a little glamorized family life to showcase a cookbook? You may find that your life does not change so much once in possession of Deborah Madison's cookbook. But the food is hearty and easy and tasty. And in reality that is all you can ask of a cookbook.

Note: We know, the book's listed as "out of print" at Amazon. But keep an eye out for it; it may be showing up on a remainder table near you.--Ed.

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Michelle Auerbach Brode was a professional chef. Now she is much happier cooking at home for her family and talking about food incessantly. If you need to talk to her about food or anything else she can be reached at Michelle.Brode@pobox.com.